Expats

Editor’s note: The story below is written by Ray Kuschert, who is from Australia, in response to Tuoi Tre News ‘ discussion on pho in the north and the south of Vietnam. The story was edited by Tuoi Tre News for clarity, consistency, and coherence.

From the perfect ‘hangover cure’ to the best breakfast in town, pho is known worldwide as the most quintessential Vietnamese meal, and a fix-all home remedy for good health. However, outside this country, little is known about the variations, flavors and types of pho that exist in the local provinces all over Vietnam.

The essential ingredients in pho across the country don’t change all that much. They include piping hot water, with spices mixed into it to create a soup broth, noodles, onions, chicken or beef, and some local inclusions, depending on if you are eating the northern or southern pho .

As a long-time southerner, and Australian expat, my introduction to pho was built around the southern version. The base of spices is a hot soup that teases the nose on a hot street corner. The noodles and meat swim in the soup waiting for the last touch, your own input with lime, sauce and herbs added to complete your personal meal.

However, the southern version has one special ingredient that is arguably the best part that separates it from the northern pho , the green herbs. There is nothing more enjoyable than receiving a bucket of local green herbs and plants that you can add to the broth in your own way. Finally, add ‘tuong den (hoisin sauce)’ and chili to your pho , and you have a mixture of flavors that are world-class for less than two dollars.

Ray Kuschert puts veggies into his bowl of pho in a photo he provided Tuoi Tre News.

My personal favorite in Ho Chi Minh City is the iconic Pho Binh at 9 Ly Chinh Thang Street in District 3. This historic site has served their aromatic blend of southern-style pho for over 50 years. Every time you go there you have a choice of chicken or beef and receive the biggest bucket of green herbs. After you take a minute or two to add all your personal options to the bowl, the noodles and meat seem to be hidden by the masses of greenery packed in at the top of the bowl and it tastes delicious.

Strangely, another favorite pho experience comes, not in Vietnam, but in the suburbs of Sydney, Australia. Parramatta is a large city on the fringe of Sydney. Near the train station is Pho Pasteur, taking the name of the famous pho restaurant here in Ho Chi Minh City, and they not only serve pho but a range of Vietnamese foods. On my visits back to Australia, I always make sure I visit the restaurant and enjoy a pretty good southern-style pho , with a little Australian influence. The cold winter nights are often warmer with a big hot bowl of pho to help me turn my mind to getting back to Vietnam and to the people I love and miss when I am away.

As a southerner, the ‘Hanoi-style’ pho is one that seems a little boring, but it does have its own special touch. The broth has a distinctly different flavor, being saltier and not as sweet, with a number of minor, yet significant, variations to the southern dish. There is also an egg, similar to a poached egg, that is sometimes heated in a separate dish of the boiling broth mixture and many people talk about the unique chili sauce that is often made in the restaurant. Another addition to the northern pho is the ‘cheo quay,’ a deep-fried bread stick that you soak in the broth as you eat. Some say it’s a little oily, but it definitely makes it into a full meal.

Avoiding the conflict of suggesting that northern pho is not actually pho , many southern Vietnamese often comment how the northern version actually uses a different type of noodles, being bigger than the southern noodles, in the traditional food. This brings a different texture to the dish and adds yet another level of originality to the local food. Is it better? Well, that will never be agreed upon in this country.

First experiencing pho in my home country of Australia, where many southern Vietnamese settled in the 1970s and 1980s, and having lived in Ho Chi Minh City for the best part of a decade, my absolute preference is the southern version of pho . I really value the taste variation of the herbs and endless green leaves that can be added to the dish. It really gives it a clean and fresh taste and I know it’s about as healthy as you will get in any noodle dish worldwide.

Expats living in Vietnam shared with Tuoi Tre New s some of their impressions, both positive and negative, about the Lunar New Year, or Tet holiday, in the country.

‘I like to give red envelopes’

I love the decorations and energy of my friends and colleagues during Tet. Everyone is very excited, especially the children at school who are always asking me “teacher, luck money lucky money!”

I also really enjoy going into the markets in District 1 and watching people taking photographs in their traditional ao dai .

I have never celebrated Tet with my Vietnamese friends as it seems to be a very family-orientated holiday, but I like to give red envelopes with lucky money to people who I see regularly and would like to show thanks to.

This year I plan to spend Tet holiday outside of Vietnam, taking my mum to visit the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia and the city of Bangkok in Thailand. This is the longest holiday I get off work so I like to explore different countries.

Going on holiday during Tet is great because it is the longest length of time most expats get off work – this makes it the perfect time to go travelling! But it’s always nice to spend time at the start or the end of Tet in Vietnam so you can soak up the atmosphere, maybe try some of the traditional Tet foods and give out lucky money. The weather is great in Vietnam during this time of year so I would highly recommend people to stay and travel in Vietnam during Tet.

Last year I spent a few days in Ho Chi Minh City at the end of Tet and found that the city was really quiet! Lots of my local street vendors and restaurants were closed but it was really nice to drive around the city with hardly any traffic and lots of beautiful blue skies.

Some of my friends have travelled in Vietnam during Tet and told me that things like restaurants and hostels tend to stay open in more touristy places like Hoi An, with the exceptions of tours which may not be running.

A downside to travelling during Tet is that you might not be able to do everything you had hoped to due to tour companies and restaurants closing. It’s also a very busy time for travel in Vietnam as many people return to their hometowns so prices for transport can be high!

I would like to wish the people of Vietnam a relaxing Tet, and hope they get to spend time enjoying good food with their families. For the future I would like to wish Vietnam a happy, healthy and prosperous year of the pig!

Frances from Scotland

Impressed by the apricot blossoms

I like the lights and flowers used for decoration quite a lot, especially apricot blossoms.

When Tet nears, anywhere you go, you will see apricot blossoms, but probably the strangest thing for me would be apricot blossoms being sold by street vendors on lorries and pickup trucks.

Vietnamese do not get much time off, while by nature they are very festive and frantic, so Tet is usually one of the few opportunities for people to have fun and celebrate.

In my country, during national holidays we usually drink and relax, instead of going out drinking and partying like most Vietnamese do.

Tet seems crazy in Vietnam since everything is booked out and prices are high, especially for flight tickets and train tickets.

People really enjoy it but it is insane for us.

Generally, the prices of everything in Vietnam during holidays triple or double, which can rarely be seen in other countries since in most countries there is a law preventing such things from happening.

Tom Okon from Australia

Worried about drunk driving

I am the most worried about driving under influence during Tet.

It is a commonly seen thing in Vietnam, but it is even more pronounced during the holidays – before and within Tet.

Year-end parties, new-year parties, and praying are just some of the gathering opportunities during the Lunar New Year.

For Vietnamese, every time there is a gathering, it is an opportunity to drink and Vietnamese usually encourage each other to drink as much as possible.

I hope that this year people start encouraging each other to only drink enough to still be able to drive home, instead.

In Vietnam it seems as if drinking alcohol was an activity that can be done at any time as beer is even sold in coffee shops!

In the United States, people usually just drink on weekends and alcoholic beverages are only sold at restaurants and bars, rather than at any possible place like in Vietnam.

Bryant Bennett Payne from the USA

Eager to welcome a meaningful Tet

Ms. Nadine Ziegeldorf, 48, is from Australia and has lived with her two daughters in Hoi An since 2009. Like every year, she and her children participate in Tet activities in Vietnam, as they go to local Tet markets together to buy flowers, confectionery, jam and some home decorations. This year, other than that, her family met with a number of foreign friends and locals in Hoi An to make banh chung (square sticky rice cake) – a traditional cake during Tet, in addition to preparing Tat Nien (year-end) worshiping trays to enjoy the last meal of the year with family members and friends. The Tet markets also make her equally excited because many Vietnamese customs here amuse her.

“On the last day of the year in my country, we celebrate the new year with a celebration and a party. Tet in Vietnam for families is very special, as it is an opportunity to gather family members, especially children who have lived and worked in different regions across the country, happily reuniting with their parents. In addition, I also like the culture of lucky money here. That is the respect children hold for their seniors and represents the good fortune of the new year,” said Nadine.

Nadine, who works in the tourism industry, quickly fell in love with Vietnam and decided it would become her second home. She has spent many Tet holidays in Vietnam, about 15. She has also celebrated Tet in many different cities such as Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Hoi An.

Nadine and her friend experience Vietnamese calligraphy culture. (Photo: NDO/Thanh Tam)

This year, due to the COVID-19 epidemic, she and her daughters have not been able to visit their family in Australia. However, Nadine feels fortunate that in Vietnam the epidemic has been well controlled. Talking about her wish for a new year, she smiled: “For 2021, we look forward to continuing to maintain the health and safety of the community in Vietnam and beyond. We are very fortunate to have been here during COVID-19 and hope that the rest of the world can enjoy the freedom, security and happiness we have. Hopefully the epidemic will be controlled worldwide so that we can also reunite with our family.”

Like Nadine, Mr. Stacky Stacpoole, 60, temporarily residing in Da Nang, from Victoria (Australia) also celebrated Tet this year in Vietnam as he could not return to his homeland. After retiring, he came to Vietnam via an invitation from friends in Australia five years ago. Following initial concerns about a foreign and unfamiliar country, the Vietnamese have broken all of these negative thoughts. The beautiful country, the fresh air, the growing economy and the friendly Vietnamese people made him decide to choose this place to enjoy his old age. He has volunteered for English-speaking clubs and learning centres across Da Nang.

Having spent four Tet holidays in Vietnam, Mr. Stacpoole is very interested in many meaningful cultures and customs. One example is the custom of inviting guests to enjoy Tet meals with family members when they come to celebrate Tet. It’s informal but also very solemn. He also likes the Vietnamese custom of giving lucky money to wish for good fortune in the upcoming new year. He has also joined his friends in Hoi An to release flower lanterns at the beginning of the year. People say it is to drop their wishes into a new year.

“Before Tet or during Tet days, Vietnamese people visit their ancestors’ tombs and clean the gravesites as an act of remembrance for the deceased and as a recognition of their roots. It is a very meaningful custom and one that has left a deep impression on me,” Stacpoole said.

Stacpoole (second from left) with his students in an English class. (Photo: NDO/Thanh Tam)

This year, he was invited by the family of a Vietnamese friend to celebrate Tet at their home, an invitation he was very eager to accept. This was an opportunity for him to welcome a full Tet like a true Vietnamese person. “My wish to everyone in the new year is good health and happiness. Fortunately, when I am in Vietnam, I always have both of those things,” he said.

Lao and Cambodian students welcome Vietnamese Tet

As with every year, this is also a time when many Lao and Cambodian students from the University of Da Nang’s Campus in Kon Tum Province have a break from school and return to their home countries. This year, the complicated developments of COVID-19 prevented them from doing so. The international students saw it as an opportunity to experience the atmosphere of Tet in Vietnam.

Present at the university when the school was giving Tet gifts and organising Tet activities for international students from Laos and Cambodia, they could feel the jubilant Tet atmosphere, as well as the sense of expectation and eagerness for the coming new year.

Thai Kevmonirath, 24, a fourth year student, said that after hearing the news he could not return to his home country due to COVID-19, he feel a little sad and homesick. However, the Cambodian national said this was also an opportunity for him to experience and learn about the Vietnamese Tet.

“At first when I heard the news, I was a bit sad because I haven’t been home for nearly a year. I miss my family and relatives. However, I have heard from Vietnamese friends that Tet here is great fun, so I am excited to join the Vietnamese Tet celebrations. I also called to inform my family and my parents encouraged me to stay healthy, study well and not forget my mission of preventing and controlling the epidemic”, shared Kevmonirath.

Like Kevmonirath, many other international students are also experiencing the Vietnamese Tet atmosphere for the first time. Lao national Phoutpasert, 20, a second year student, said that, during the Tet holiday this year, to ensure the prevention and control of COVD-19, the university did not allow students to go outside the boundaries of Kon Tum City. Therefore, Kevmonirath decided to visit the homes of some Vietnamese friends in Kon Tum to enjoy a complete Vietnamese Tet atmosphere.

International students eager to enjoy Vietnamese traditional Tet together. (Photo: NDO/Hoang Loc)

First year student Sam Rothkumthea, 19, a Lao national, has never celebrated Vietnamese Tet, but through Vietnamese friends, Rothkumthea feels very excited. “Tet in Vietnam, as far as I know, is an opportunity for families to reunite. Everyone gets together to clean and decorate their houses beautifully and welcome the good things in the new year. This is very similar to the traditional New Year of Laos”, said Rothkumthea.

Panit Thammavongsa, 22, a Lao national and third year student, was also impressed by Vietnamese Tet: “Going out during Tet in Vietnam, I see all the streets in the city become very exciting and bustling. I was led by my friends to see the spring flower markets sparkling with various colours. Through this introduction, I look forward to the New Year’s Eve atmosphere most. At that time, everyone will focus on welcoming the transition between the old and the new year, while watching fireworks in the sky. In particular, I like the custom of li xi (giving lucky money) of the Vietnamese people and the wishes and nice words they use to welcome a new year full of good health, peace, favourable work and good study. Hopefully this year we will receive a lot of lucky money.”

Ms. Nguyen To Nhu, Deputy Director of the University of Da Nang’s Campus in Kon Tum, said that the whole school has a total of 236 Lao and Cambodian international students, including 17 Cambodian and 219 Lao.

In order to encourage and support international students in Vietnam during this Tet holiday, the school has also presented many Tet gifts, along with necessities for them to celebrate the spring festival. In addition, during the holiday period, the university’s canteen is closed, shops and cafes outside are also often closed, so the school opened the canteen to let foreign students to cook during the Tet break.

“We also encourage foreign students during the Vietnamese Tet holiday to visit relics, landscapes, events and festivals to learn about Vietnamese customs and culture, or visit the houses of their Vietnamese friends to celebrate Tet. However, the school also fully understands that our students, while joining Tet activities, must strictly obey the regulations of the Ministry of Health of Vietnam on COVID-19 prevention under the 5K Message (in Vietnamese) Khau trang (facemask) – Khu khuan (disinfection) – Khoang cach (distance) – Khong tu tap (no gathering) – Khai bao y te (health declaration),” Ms. Nhu added.

Nadine, Stacpoole and many other foreigners have chosen Vietnam as their workplace or second home because the country and its people have brought them friendliness, hospitality and a safe environment. In union with the Vietnamese people participating in Tet activities, everyone wishes for a more peaceful, more stable year, spreading the nation’s tradition of solidarity to all international friends.

A recent surge in the number of Vietnamese students and technical interns going to Japan has resulted in the changing expat demographics, according to public broadcaster NHK .

The number of Vietnamese residents living in Japan reached 448,053 last year, up 10 percent from the previous year and an increase of more than 10 times over the past 10 years, according to data from the Japan’s Immigration Services Agency.

In recent years, the growing presence of Japanese companies in Vietnam has sparked greater increased interest among younger Vietnamese to study and/or undertake technical training programs in Japan in the hope of landing a well-paid job.

China topped the expat list with 778,112 and South Korea was third with 426,908 people.

There were about 2.89 million foreign nationals in Japan at the end of last year, down by about 46,000 over the previous year. Vietnamese expats accounted for more than 15 percent of total foreign nationals in the country.

Meanwhile, 15,875 foreign nationals were ordered to leave Japan for overstaying their visas and other reasons last year. Nearly 70 percent of them, or about 11,000 people, were working illegally, mainly in the agriculture and construction sectors, the NHK reported.

Starting this month, Vietnam Airlines and Vietjet have been allowed to resume commercial flights connecting Hanoi and HCMC to Japan’s Tokyo.

The gifts included confectionery, coffee, water and shopping vouchers, among others.

Vice President of the Vietnamese People Chapter in Chomutov city Pham The Quang said that the move aims to express gratitude to medical workers, who have directly confronted risks of COVID-19 infection to aid patients and help to prevent the spread of the pandemic over the past year.

Particularly, they have worked relentlessly to care for the patients, including Vietnamese citizens, he added.

The Vietnamese community has been commended for their contributions to the host nation. At the outset of 2020, the community donated more than 252,000 CZK to support people with disabilities, and upgrade the fire-fighting system at sponsorship centres for people with disabilities in Chomutov, following a fire at a sponsorship centre that killed eight people and injured 30 others.

The community has also joined hands with local authorities to fight against the COVID-19 pandemic through sewing face masks and providing food for frontline workers. Besides, it mobilised some 300,000 CZK to buy ventilators for Maysaryk hospital.

Recently, one of the global expat living publications released a whizz bang study on the cost of living in various countries around the world for expatriates, and Vietnam came out on top of the pile as the absolute cheapest.

Exactly how affordable is Vietnam?

A while back I went through a line-by-line exercise detailing typical expat living expenses , but now let’s take a different tack, looking at what can be bought for one little ole U.S. dollar in Vietnam.

In Vietnamese dong terms, that U.S. dollar buys about VND23,000. The Australian and Canadian dollars weigh in at about VND18,000, whereas the euro pegs at VND27,000.

The UK’s pound sterling converts to just short of VND32,000.

Confused yet?

Me too, so screw it, we’ll just stick with the U.S. dollar and use VND20,000 as the local currency equivalent, a nice, easy round number. I include the VND amounts below to facilitate easy conversion to other currencies.

Actually, using a lower value than the prevailing exchange rate may not be a bad idea, because the U.S. Federal Reserve continues to put money into circulation like a bunch of drunken sailors on shore leave.

Vietnam, working conservatively with the future in mind, is busy squirreling away foreign currency, leading me to think that rate may well change one day, but we have no idea whether indeed it will change, by how much, or when.

In the meantime, let’s go on a typical little daily trip to your local market and see what a dollar can buy us.

First up, you need to park your motorbike, which you can do seven times at markets in most cities for that dollar – i.e. it’s usually VND3,000 a pop, give or take.

Bread always comes in handy, so how many ‘banh mi’ can we buy (just whole loaves, not prepared sandwiches) for that dollar?

There are many different grades of that little slice of heaven ranging in price from VND1,500 to VND3,000 each, and no doubt there are designer versions that come in pricier featuring seeds and nuts, even emitting a cute little jingle when sliced open.

The VND1,500 loaves are extremely light and airy, the VND2,000 loaves are a bit denser, while the more expensive ‘heavyweight’ versions are nearly twice the weight, more concentrated and tastier, so we’ll go with them at VND3,000 each, that’s seven for a buck – damn good deal.

Heavyweight ‘banh mi’

Now let’s pick up some veggies, you can buy two majestic heads of broccoli or cauliflower for a buck – those big enough for two servings cost about VND10,000 each.

For the same amount, you can snag two pomelos, which look like a grapefruit on steroids, called ‘buoi,’ but only the smallish variety, a bit old, possibly with some blemishes, they’re discounted but still great for eating. What’s inside is delicious and freshly preserved by that extra thick pith, and that’s what matters. The largest and prettiest versions of pomelo will run closer to two bucks.

Stuck between washing days with no clean socks? Damn, don’t you hate it when that happens?

Fret not, you can even buy three pairs of socks for VND20,000, that’s the very short ladies’ version that only comes up to your ankle bone (irritating) and develops holes in the heels and toes in no time flat. Still, if you’re in a jam, those socks will bail you out.

If you stub your toe wandering around the market, no worries, you can pick up no less than 20 average-sized plastic band aids for that buck.

Every household needs fresh hen’s eggs – I personally prefer them all natural with blobs of poop and gunk on the outside – adds realism to the whole buying experience. I assume, but can furnish no proof to back up the claim, that the poopy variety come from happier hens than those who lay the squeaky clean industrial supermarket eggs by the thousand.

You can buy ten poopy eggs for that buck although they are typically sold by the kilo, just remember to wash them thoroughly before cracking them open to avoid any bacteria.

Poopy eggs

How about a nice freshwater snakehead fish (‘ca loc’ – yep, the very one I struggle to pronounce correctly as analyzed to tears in my previous update). You can choose any two of the large chunks below (each is enough for one meal for one person) for a buck, which do not include the head and all the guts in the center of the photo, from which I made a tasty soup stock.

I pulled that live fish out of the tank myself and whacked it senseless with a steel pole, you can’t beat that for freshness.

Snakehead (ca loc) fish

The entire fish cost me VND85,000, which comes out to eight good-sized chunks, or two for VND20,000.

To round out your meal you can buy enough chilies, coriander, basil, and spring onions to choke a horse for a buck, or for VND2,000 you can get enough of each to prepare a single meal. Hell, if you buy several items from a market vendor, they’ll throw them in for free.

Let’s stop off for a snack, there’s always a ‘bun thit nuong’ or ‘banh uot’ stand within spitting distance. The two dishes are similar – a thin rice crepe with grilled or ground pork, hunks of sausage, sprouts, greens, and, naturally, some mild fish sauce.

If you spot some woven rice noodles that resemble little cross-thatched blankets, those are ‘banh hoi.’ Grab them, that design soaks up the fish sauce delightfully! You can pick up any one of these three dishes for VND20,000 and enjoy it whilst sitting on a kiddie-sized plastic stool.

A wicked ‘banh out’

Let’s top that dish off with a nice local coffee cups, some are made from a blend of local Vietnamese robusta beans (known to make the hairs on your arm stand up), others are made from a mixture of robusta and arabica seeds.

A cup in a nice café will go for a dollar, sometimes more, but if you don’t mind drinking in the kind of dump I frequent you can get one for half that, so for a buck you can invite a friend to join you for a cup.

Thirsty? You can pick up two large glasses of sugarcane juice (‘nuoc mia’) squeezed right on the spot for VND20,000, which can’t beat that with a stick. It’s packed with electrolytes to stave off dehydration in hot, sticky weather.

Let’s say that on your trek around the market, you catch your clothing on a nail, resulting in an unsightly tear. Don’t worry, on your way home just pop into the Miracle Sewing Lady, she can fix anything.

She sits there all day, from 7:00 am to 5:00 pm (I checked), hardly moving, just sewing her brains out. She memorizes every repair job dropped off by each customer, the time by which she promised to complete the work, and the price she quoted. I’d bet a tidy sum that she never muffs up a job or forgets what she promised her customer.

Miracle Sewing Lady just sits outside a house, has no shop of her own, but I wouldn’t be surprised to see her take over the entire block one day, she’s that good. Anyway, she can fix up any clothing misfortune in no time flat, charging VND20,000 or less for a repair.

Miracle Sewing Lady

And if you’re feeling lucky after all that shopping, you can pick up two daily lottery tickets for a buck and give one to a friend to ensure maximum luck.

You never know, somebody who wins it might be you.

In the meantime, enjoy the affordable prices here in Vietnam, they probably won’t remain that way forever.